The falls and the biggest rrrooodent in the world

We had planned to spend a few days at the beach in northern Urugauy but it was a little cold for lounging on the beach so we decided to make our way up to Iguassu falls. After much consultation with our lonely planet we decided the best route would be to head from Montevideo, where we spent a night up to Porto Alegre in Brazil then hop onto another bus to Foz do Iguassu. Sounds easy enough but affter 30 hours on a bus we arrived in Foz do Iguassu in a zombie like state and very keen to get some sleep. Foz is a really relaxing town on the Brazilia side of the border of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. It is just down the road from the spectacular Iguassu Falls and was well worth the effort getting here.

We found a great little hostel to say at called Bambu Hostel. The staff here were more than helpful and there was a nice group of mellow travellers staying here. It was pretty cold and misty when we got here but but once the sun came out and the mist burnt off it turned out to be another amazing blue sky day. After freshening up with a luke warm shower and putting on some clean clothes we decided to make our way up to the Brazilian side of the falls. It was really easy to get there, just jumped on a public bus which takes you right up to the start of the reserve where the falls are.

The falls were absolutely amazing, and they are based in an area of preserved forrest which adds to the atmosphere. The falls can be viewed from both the Brazilian side and the Argentinean side of the border. Brazil only has access to 20% of the falls but is still well worth a look as that side gives you more of a panoramic view of the falls. We spent a couple of hours taking in the views and enjoying the warm Brazilian sunshine. Argentina and Uruguay had been a similar temperature to back home, so it was great to get some warmer temperatures.

We woke up the following day to another beautiful sunny day and headed over to the Argintinean side of the border. So strange just being able to drive to another country in a matter of minutes!! Our hostel had arranged a tour for us which was really good value, our guide was knowlegable and had a really keen eyye for the lopcal wildlife. He would spot turtles, cayman and birds that we just walked straight past. The Argentineans own 80% of the falls and you get a much more up close look at them from this side. We got really up close on a boat, they dorve us right under the falls and got us absolutely soaked. definitely recommend doing the boat, just make sure you keep your camea dry and bring a something to change into.

After getting off the boat we got picked up in this army style truck with this funny local guide. He had the quirkiest speech which had us all amused. He told us about the Puma and Jaguars which are around but very rarely seen. He also mentioned that this area is home to the worlds largets RRRRooooooooodent, as he put it. A 80kg critter that apparently looks like a pig. I was really hoping we would see one but I think the combination of massive army style 4x4 and the sound of this crazy local speaking into a microphone scared every animal in a 2 mile radius.

We had a great time in Foz, if you are plannig a trip here definitely spend at least 2 days here and take a look at the falls from both sides. Off to Rio this evening, can´t wait.

Mate mate?

After our run in with the less well intentioned locals we were pretty glad to make it onto the ferry. It was a real shame that our trip to Buenous Aires finished on a negative note because overall we had a really great time there and would definitely recommend anyone visiting this part of the world spend a few days there.

The ferry to Uruguay only took an hour, we decided to visit the town of Colonia Del Sacramento. Colonia is the oldest city in Uruguay and is a wonderful little place to vist. Founded in 1680 by the Portuguese, the historical part of town is listed as a world heritage site. Pokey little coblestone streets line the old part of town which is situated on a little peninsula thats sticks out in to the river. The town has a real country feel about it and feels alot further than 1 hour away from Buenous Aires. There are still horse drawn carts in the streets and the odd vintage car permanently parked on the roadside.

We got up pretty early and wandered round the streets of Colonia, it´s only a little place so it´s easy to do on foot and best early before the little side streets fill up with tourists. This place is well and truly on the tourist map, but still doesn´t have that over commercialised feel about it. We definitely recommend spending a day or two here, probably best to come during the week if you want to avoid the crowd from Buenous Aires.

Uruguay definitely had a more relaxed feel about it, the locals seem a lot more laid back very content to sit around sipping theit mate. Mate is a local tea like drink that is more of a social pastime than a simple thirst quencher. We first learnt about it at our Spanish class in Auckland, but didn´t realise what an integral part of day to day life it is for the locals. They drink it out of these ornate cups and sip the mate through these silver straws topping it up with hot water until the flavour is lost.

Other random things we noticed, they don´t seen to eat pepper here, juice is served to you more often than not in a big shot glass, the beer is good, they like to eat meat in vast quantities and much to our delight the sky has been blue every day.

The best steak ever

Buenos Aires

We arrived in Buenos Aires under the cover of darkness, but woke to beautiful blue skies and luckily with this came our luggage which had been misplaced by the airline overnight. We were staying in Palermo which is a pretty trendy suburb with lots of nice restaurants close at hand. Our home in Buenos Aires was Casa Esmeralda a gorgeous place with a sunny courtyard which we would defintiely recommend.

On our first day in Buenos Aires we managed to work out the bus system and made our way to la Recoleta Cemetary where Eva Peron and the rest of Buenos Aires elite go to rest. Eva Peron´s tomb was definitely the star of the show but compared to many of the marble, granite and statue clad tombs her´s was rather unspectacular. Other residents of the cemetary include a large collection of cats, Buenos Aires is obviously a city that loves cats, we even saw one sleeping in a bed in a furniture shop. The rest of day we explored the wealthy park filled neighbourhood of Recoleta.

Recoleta Cemetary the site of Eva Peron´s grave

This cat was fast asleep on a bed for sale in a swanky furniture store

After a late afternoon siesta we made our way to la Dalitos on the corner of Costa Rica and Bupland where Phil devoured 300g of the best steak he had ever tasted and Anna had her first leche la dolce (Sweet caramel sauce Argentines like to smother on everything, even for breakfast).

The food here was amazing and not too badly priced with our four course meal with a nice bottle of syrrah-marbec blend costing about $50 for the two of us.

Day two in Buenos Aires, we took it easy exploring the beautiful cafe on boutique filled streets of Palermo a bit further. That night we managed to catch a tango show, which to our surpise was more of a musical show than a dance show. But the passion the locals had for the music was amazing with tears welling up in our neighbouring patrons eyes. The dancers managed to have six costume changes in our 2 hour show. After the show we headed back to our favourite restaurant la Dalitos and ate with the locals at around midnight (their normal dinner time). We took a break from steak and tried some homemade ravioli which was excellent.

Day three, we caught the bus into town as we were catching the ferry over to Urguay today. Managed to have a bit of excitment on the way. Nearly got caught in a scam where pretty much they squirt some thick smelly liquid on you, don´t ask us what it is. They then offer to help wipe it off you, telling you it is bird shit while they tell you smell. All the while they are rifling through your pockets and trying to get into you bags. We were lucky and managed to get out of there unscathed with the help of a friendly local. Pretty harmless but a good wakeup call.

Buenos Aires Tip

Coins are in short supply in Argentina, funny as it is the opposite back home. Apparently the bus companies hoard them so they are quite hard to come by and you need them for buses. So if you get given coins hang on to them!